Milan drips with luxury. The streets smell of designer perfume. You can hear the tick-tack of Laboutins against clean cobbles and see Fat Cats hand over thick wads of Euros to pristine shop assistants. Groomed locals glide past on bicycles and there are infinite hotspots which host star-studded aperitivi.
I go to Milan twice a year for the biggest shoe event in the world; Micam. When I first started going I so desired to soak up the amazing Milanese movida with its Aperol and shine. After almost 12 years of bi-annual visits the desire for keeping up with the lifestyle faded. Now the highlight of my trip is a visit to my favorite backstreet eatery, Luini.
The name Luini might jog the memories of Italians and Italophiles in London. We used to have our very own Luini near Clerkenwell but alas with its disappearance so went the only authentic panzerotti in town.
In Milan however, Luini is very much alive. Just off the hustle & bustle of Corso Duomo it lies small and unassuming, attracting queues with its delicious panzerotti; golden crescents of fluffy dough, stuffed with both savoury and sweet fillings. The queues of eager street food fans spill onto the pavement and it typical Italian style, it’s all done wth chaos and enthusiasm. Luini appeared in 1949, born of Giuseppina Luini, a Puglian with a passion for street food from her region. In a city where the service charge for merely sitting at a table will set you back 3 euros each, Luini is a much-loved and much-needed exception to the rule.
When in Milan be sure to visit – Panificio Luini, via S. Radegonda 16, Milano, Italy