Milan drips in luxury. The streets smell of Armani Code. You can hear the tick-tack of Laboutins against clean cobbles and see Fat Cats hand over thick wads of Euros to pristine shop assistants. Well-heeled locals glide past on bicycles and there is no limit ultra trendy hotspots which host star-studded aperitivi.
I go to Milan twice a year for the biggest shoe event in the world; Micam. When I first started going I so desired to soak up the amazing Milanese scene with its Aperol and shine. After almost 12 years of bi-annual visits the desire for glmour consumption has faded. Now the highlight of my trip is a visit to my favorite backstreet eatery, Luini.
The name Luini might jog the memories of Italians and Italophiles in London. We used to have our very own Luini near Clerkenwell but alas with its disappearance so went the only authentic panzerotti in town.
In Milan however, Luini is very much alive. Just off the hustle & bustle of Corso Duomo lies a small unassuming shop supplying those in the know with delicious freshly baked / fried panzerotti. The golden crescents of dough are stuffed with a variety of fillings including ham, cheese, tomato sauce and even sweet fillings like figs and chocolate. The queues of eager panzerotti fans spill onto the pavement and as with most things Italian, it’s horrendously disorganised but overly enthusiastic.
Luini appeared in 1949, born of Giuseppina Luini, a Puglian with a passion for street food from her region. Today as well as savoury and sweet panzerotti you can find other carbified goodies.
In a city where the service charge for merely sitting at a table will set you back 3 euros each, Luini is a much-loved and much-needed exception to the rule.
When in Milan be sure to visit – Panificio Luini, via S. Radegonda 16, Milano, Italy